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Brokeback Mountain is the story of ranch hand Ennis del Mar (Ledger) and rodeo cowboy Jack Twist (Gyllenhaal), two young men who meet and fall in love in 1963 on a sheepherding job on "Brokeback Mountain" in Wyoming. The film documents their complex relationship over the next twenty years.

The film opens in the summer of 1963. After sunrise, Ennis del Mar, traveling with only a brown paper bag in hand, is dropped off by a truck driver in a rural town. Waiting outside a trailer office to seek employment, he sees Jack Twist arrive, also looking for work. Ennis and Jack are hired by Joe Aguirre (Randy Quaid), a gruff rancher in Signal, Wyoming, to herd sheep on nearby Brokeback Mountain.

Aguirre explains their duties: Both tend and herd the sheep, but at night one of the men sleeps at a base camp, preparing meals and watching over supplies, while the other sleeps in a pup tent in the pasture near the sheep to protect them from local predators, with no fire or any sign of being there the following morning, as such a set-up would violate Forestry Service regulations.

They meet only for meals at the base camp, where they gradually become friends as the meals turn into long talks over whiskey. After one night of heavy drinking, a tipsy Ennis decides to stay at the base camp and sleep fireside. During the cold early morning hours, with campfire out, audibly shivering Ennis is invited by Jack to sleep in the tent. After a while, Jack initiates intimate touching, action which, after Ennis' initial confusion and resistance, results in a brief sexual encounter. They both insist the next day that they "ain't queer"; however, over the remainder of the summer their emotional and physical relationship deepens. Meanwhile, certain ominous events take place during the season: the sheep are mixed in with another foreign herd; one sheep is disemboweled by wolves; while checking on the two men, the sheep rancher witnesses a playful wrestling game (which he later mentions); a violent thunderstorm comes quickly upon the two men; and a sudden snowfall near the end of August signals an earlier than expected end of summer. On the last day of their job, their frustrations over leaving each other manifest in a playful fight that turns into a scuffle. Jack clips Ennis in the nose causing him to bleed, and Ennis punches Jack in the face.

After the two part ways at the end of their job, Ennis, as planned, marries his long-time fiancée Alma Beers (Williams), and they soon after have two daughters, Alma Jr. and Jenny, the family living above a laundromat in a small Wyoming town. Jack ends up in Texas, where he meets and marries rodeo princess Lureen Newsome (Hathaway), the daughter of a farm equipment magnate. The couple have a son, Bobby. Jack goes to work for Lureen's father at his ranch equipment dealership.

Four years later, Ennis receives a postcard from Jack saying he will be passing through the area, and asking if Ennis wants to meet him. When Jack arrives, their passions for each other quickly rekindle, and Alma accidentally witnesses the two men passionately kissing at the stairwell. They go to a motel, where, after sex, Jack broaches the subject of creating a life together on a small ranch. Ennis, haunted by a painful childhood memory of the torture and murder of a man suspected as being gay in his hometown, fears that such an arrangement can only end in tragedy. He is also unwilling to abandon his wife and daughters. Unable to be open about their relationship, Ennis and Jack then settle for infrequent meetings on fishing trips in the mountains.

As the years pass, Ennis and Alma's marriage deteriorates. Although Ennis hadn't realized it, Alma has been aware of the real nature of his "fishing trips" with Jack, creating a strain on the couple's relationship. Prior to having sex one night, Alma insists that Ennis use protection, which leads to an argument, wherein Alma says she is the one who is supporting the family. Soon after, their marriage ends in divorce and Ennis is ordered to pay child support of $125 per month per child. He moves into a rundown house outside of town. Jack, upon hearing the news of the divorce, drives to Wyoming in hopes that they can live together at last, but Ennis refuses to move away from his children and is still fearful of possible repercussions if they live together. Jack, heartbroken and frustrated, seeks out a male prostitute in Mexico.

On another camping trip in the mountains in 1983 the two men talk about their lives since they last met: Ennis has been dating a waitress named Cassie Cartwright (Linda Cardellini), while Jack says he's been seeing the wife of a ranch foreman (however, we were shown in an earlier scene that Jack was actually involved with the foreman himself). The emotional climax between the two men takes place as they pack up their gear, when Ennis tells Jack that because of his job he has to cancel their next planned outing. Jack's frustration of seeing so little of Ennis finally erupts into an argument in which he accuses Ennis of keeping him "on a short leash". In return, Ennis blames Jack for "making me the way I am" and for being the cause of his conflicted feelings. Ennis then laments that these emotions have trapped him and ruined his life and begins to cry. When Jack attempts to hold him, there is a brief struggle as Ennis tries to push Jack away, but they end up locked in an embrace. The two men again part, still upset and conflicted about their situation.

Months later, a postcard Ennis sent to Jack about their upcoming meeting in November is returned to Ennis in the mail stamped "Deceased". In a strained telephone conversation, Jack's wife Lureen tells a stunned Ennis that Jack died in an accident while changing a tire that exploded. Her explanation of the injuries that were inflicted, however, is overlaid with images of Jack being beaten to death by a gang of homophobic men; it is possible to interpret this as either Ennis's fear of what actually happened (inspired by his experience of the homophobic murder in his childhood) or a portrayal of what Lureen knows to be Jack's real fate, the account she relates to Ennis being a well-rehearsed, sanitized version of her husband's demise. Lureen tells Ennis that Jack had wished to have his ashes scattered on Brokeback Mountain, but she didn't know where that was. She tells Ennis that half of Jack's ashes were interred in Texas and that she sent the other half to Jack's parents. Ennis explains to Lureen that Brokeback Mountain was where the two of them had met when they pastured sheep together one summer. She then suggests that Ennis contact Jack's parents about carrying out Jack's wishes.

Ennis travels to see Jack's mother and father in Lightning Flat, where he offers to take Jack's ashes to Brokeback Mountain, but Jack's father insists that they be buried in the family plot. Jack's mother is more welcoming, and she asks Ennis if he would like to see Jack's childhood bedroom before he leaves. In this room, Ennis discovers what had happened to his old blood-stained shirt that he had left on Brokeback Mountain in 1963. Jack had kept it on a hanger underneath his own blue shirt, hidden in a narrow space to the side of his open closet. Ennis holds the shirts up to his face breathing in the scent and silently weeps. Jack's mother allows Ennis to take the shirts and invites him to return any time he wishes to.

In the final scene, Ennis is discovered sticking address numbers on the mail box of his small, run-down trailer in a trailer park on the prairie. A 19-year-old Alma Jr. drives up in her fiancé's sports car with the news that she's engaged. She asks her father to "give his blessings" on and attend the wedding. Ennis asks her pointedly if this man really loves her since he now is finally aware of the importance of love in a relationship and marriage. At first he is reluctant to commit to attending the wedding due to a conflict with his work. Alma's evident disappointment moves him to commit to attending the upcoming wedding and celebrate Alma's engagement with two glasses of wine. His missed opportunity of seeing Jack again for what would have been the last time due to a conflict with his job was a hard lesson. After Alma's departure, Ennis notices she has forgotten her sweater. Folding the sweater, he puts it into his bedroom area closet. In opening the door the two shirts are again seen one inside the other with Ennis's shirt over Jacks, on a hanger hanging on a nail pounded into the closet door with the postcard of Brokeback Mountain alongside. Ennis carefully fastens the top button of Jack's shirt, and with tears in his eyes mutters, "Jack, I swear....", while slowly straightening the postcard.