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菜的卤水分红卤水、白卤水两大类,卤制方式方法大致相同,但成品风味有所区别,这是因为卤水的配制不同。红卤水成品带酱色,分一般卤水、精卤水、及潮州卤水三种。一般卤水的主体是香料、生抽和清水,水与生抽比例5:5至7:3。精卤水主体是香料、生抽、酒,不加水或比例极少。潮州卤水的主体是香料、生抽、清水,生抽比例低,一股在25%,用老抽或珠油调色。添加当地特产南姜(良姜),而且量较大,成品也就带有姜香气。白卤水成品保持原料本色,主体是香料、清水,不加一点酱油。三、卤法工艺程序与工艺方法。1、调制卤水:包括初次的调制新卤水,第二次使用的返热煮沸,补充调料。2、原料初步处理:目的是去除原料的异味及杂质,使肉料成熟或去韧。方法有飞水、煲焓。3、卤制:将经初步热处理后的肉料放入烧沸的卤水中,卤水再次微滚时,减弱火力,维持在微滚的火力,将肉料浸卤至适口,停火再焓20—30分钟左右,捞出。注意根据原料特性及菜式要求选用恰当的火候。需预先卤制好备售。4、刀工处理、配菜、上席食用。四、操作要求:1、根据原料特性及菜式要求做好初步熟处理,并掌握好卤制火候。卤制原料多系整只或大块的,加热时间较长,原料放入卤水中后烧滚,转微火浸卤,只可以保持卤水微滚,卤制中途,适当将原料翻转。卤制过程中,如火力猛,卤汤滚沸,会使肉料收缩大,外表破裂、骨头突出,形格不完美,质感粗糙。另卤水滚沸,水分蒸发,卤水会很咸,香气成份也散失严重。2、及时补充卤水内的调料,确保卤水质量的稳定。除头次使用卤水外,每次卤食品时,要加适量的味料,视每次所卤肉料份量掌握。经过若干天后,要将药材香料全部换新。需知每次所卤的肉食,是要吸收味料成份的。3、不宜让原料长时间浸渍在卤水中,特别是大热的卤水,以免味重及焓烂过度。4、把握投料次序。几种料同时卤制时,要视原料的不同质地、形状大小来分次卤制,同一种原料、形状大小要尽量均匀且不宜过大。或几种原料同时卤下,先好先捞出。要注意不同原料同时卤制可能出现滋味互相影响的“串味”现象。5、蛋、豆制品、肠、肚等蛋白质重、易变味或本身异味重的料,要取适量卤水,单独卤制。6、当食品浸卤至够身时,最好能投入同质的冷卤水中过冷。7、食品从卤水中捞出后,应及时在其表面涂以麻油,吊挂于阴凉的熟食间。五、卤水的出味,色鲜与保存技艺。1、首次调卤水时,汤骨、药材不要装袋入煲,宜散入。待熬煮出味后再作适当处理。2、熬制卤水时,滚后转慢火,最好熬2.5小时后熄火,待冷却后,再将全部料捞出,除干香料外,其它弃去。将干香料用布袋装好,放入卤水内,再将卤水煮滚,滚前将浮面泡沫小心撇去,用干净毛巾抹去卤水桶周边内外的污渍。3、每次浸卤食品时,将卤水烧沸,加入酒,将香料包取出,然后将经飞水或煲焓处理的肉料放入,卤水再滚时,转细火至临滚状态,按肉料性质掌握浸卤时间与火力大小。4、当各款肉料卤好后取出,再使卤水翻滚,滚前将浮面油小心撇去,用干净毛巾抹去卤水桶内外油污,再将香料包放回,翻滚后,熄火冷却。5、熬卤水、滚卤水及浸卤肉料时,切勿将盖加上,加盖,药味会较浓,卤水色泽也较暗黑色、卤水桶产生较多油污,入卤的食品出油,有皮的起粘胶质。6、卤水每次用完后,翻滚待凉时,不要加盖,必须完全凉后,才可加盖。蒸汽倒汗水回流会影响卤水品质。7、卤水桶晾凉后,加盖,放于通风阴凉地方,切勿接触生水。不管用与否,热天早晚再烧滚一次,冷天一日烧一次。六、潮州卤水的调配:甲:A料(生香料):大姜片2两,葱条2两,芫茜2棵,香芹2条,蒜肉1两。 B料(水状料):清水14斤,生抽5斤,鱼露1斤。 C类(汤料):汤骨2斤(斩件飞水备用)。 D料(干香料):南姜6两,香茅1.5两,芫茜子4钱,八角4钱,沙姜粒3钱,草果3粒,甘草3钱,小茴香4钱,桂皮4钱,丁香2钱,香叶5钱,薄荷4钱,百里香2钱。 E料(味料):冰糖1.8斤,味精3两,盐1两,绍酒5两,玫瑰露酒2两,乙基麦芽酚20g,肉元宝20g。F料:黄枝子1两。 制法: 将A料用油爆香,放入卤水煲桶,加入B、C、D、F料,中火烧滚,转慢火熬2.5小时,熄火冷却后,将材料全部捞出,汤骨及A料弃去,其它的用白布袋装好放回,将E料加入,再慢火熬煮至盐、糖溶解。潮州卤水方乙: 八角10g,桂皮10g,陈皮5g,香茅40g,丁香5g,薄荷10g,南姜150g,红谷米10g,甘草10g,花椒10g,蒜头60g,葱头50g,芫茜头40g。水5000g,美极鲜酱油750g,老抽100g,料酒100g,冰糖100g,味精25g,鱼露100g。
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