餐饮产品由于地域特征、气侯环境、风俗习惯等因素的影响,会出现在原料、口味、烹调方法、饮食习惯上的不同程度的差异。正是因为这些差异,餐饮产品具有了强烈的地域性。中西文化之间的差异造就了中西饮食文化的差异,而这种差异来自中西方不同的思维方式和处世哲学。中国人注重“天人合一”,西方人注重“以人为本”。
这里简要从下面三个方面谈谈中西方饮食文化的差异。
一、两种不同的饮食观念
对比注重“味”的中国饮食,西方是一种理性饮食观念。不论食物的色、香、味、形如何,而营养一定要得到保证,讲究一天要摄取多少热量、维生素、蛋白质等等。即便口味千篇一律,也一定要吃下去——因为有营养。这一饮食观念同西方整个哲学体系是相适应的。形而上学是西方哲学的主要特点。西方哲学所研究的对象为事物之理,事物之理常为形上学理,形上学理互相连贯,便结成形上哲学。这一哲学给西方文化带来生机,使之在自然科学上、心理学上、方法论上实现了突飞猛进的发展。但在另一些方面,这种哲学主张大大地起了阻碍作用,如饮食文化。在宴席上,可以讲究餐具,讲究用料,讲究服务,讲究菜之原料的形、色方面的搭配;但不管怎么豪华高档,从洛杉矶到纽约,牛排都只有一种味道,无艺术可言。作为菜肴,鸡就是鸡,牛排就是牛排,纵然有搭配,那也是在盘中进行的,一盘“法式羊排”,一边放土豆泥,旁倚羊排,另一边配煮青豆,加几片番茄便成。色彩上对比鲜明,但在滋味上各种原料互不相干、调和,各是各的味,简单明了。
中国人是很重视“吃”的,“民以食为天”这句谚语就说明我们把吃看得与天一样重要。由于我们这个民族几千年来都处于低下的生产力水平,人们总是吃不饱,所以才会有一种独特的把吃看得重于一切的饮食文化,我想,这大概是出于一种生存需要吧。如果一种文化把吃看成首要的事,那么就会出现两种现象:一方面会把这种吃的功能发挥到极致,不仅维持生存,也利用它维持健康,这也就是”药补不如食补”的文化基础;另一方面,对吃的过份重视,会使人推崇对美味的追求。
在中国的烹调术中,对美味追求几乎达到极致,以至中国人到海外谋生,都以开餐馆为业,成了我们在全世界安身立命的根本!遗憾的是,当我们把追求美味作为第一要求时,我们却忽略了食物最根本的营养价值,我们的很多传统食品都要经过热油炸和长时间的文火饨煮,使菜肴的营养成分受到破坏,许多营养成分都损失在加工过程中了。因而一说到营养问题,实际上就触及到了中国饮食文化的最大弱点。民间有句俗话:“民以食为天,食以味为先”。就是这种对美味的追求,倒使我们忽略了吃饭的真正意义。
中国人在品尝菜肴时,往往会说这盘菜“好吃”,那道菜“不好吃”;然而若要进一步问一下什么叫“好吃”,为什么“好吃”,“好吃”在哪里,恐怕就不容易说清楚了。这说明,中国人对饮食追求的是一种难以言传的“意境”,即使用人们通常所说的“色、香、味、形、器”来把这种“境界”具体化,恐怕仍然是很难涵盖得了的。
中国饮食之所以有其独特的魅力,关键就在于它的味。而美味的产生,在于调和,要使食物的本味,加热以后的熟味,加上配料和辅料的味以及调料的调和之味,交织融合协调在一起,使之互相补充,互助渗透,水乳交融,你中有我,我中有你。中国烹饪讲究的调和之美,是中国烹饪艺术的精要之处。菜点的形和色是外在的东西,而味却是内在的东西,重内在而不刻意修饰外表,重菜肴的味而不过分展露菜肴的形和色,这正是中国美性饮食观的最重要的表现。
在中国,饮食的美性追求显然压倒了理性,这种饮食观与中国传统的哲学思想也是吻合的。作为东方哲学代表的中国哲学,其显著特点是宏观、直观、模糊及不可捉摸。中国菜的制作方法是调和鼎鼐,最终是要调和出一种美好的滋味。这一讲究的就是分寸,就是整体的配合。它包含了中国哲学丰富的辩证法思想,一切以菜的味的美好、谐调为度,度以内的千变万化就决定了中国菜的丰富和富于变化,决定了中国菜菜系的特点乃至每位厨师的特点。
二、中西饮食对象的差异
西方人认为菜肴是充饥的,所以专吃大块肉、整块鸡等“硬菜”。而中国的菜肴是“吃味”的,所以中国烹调在用料上也显出极大的随意性:许多西方人视为弃物的东西,在中国都是极好的原料,外国厨师无法处理的东西,一到中国厨师手里,就可以化腐朽为神奇。足见中国饮食在用料方面的随意性之广博。
据西方的植物学者的调查,中国人吃的菜蔬有600多种,比西方多六倍。实际上,在中国人的菜肴里,素菜是平常食品,荤菜只有在节假日或生活水平较高时,才进入平常的饮食结构,所以自古便有“菜食”之说,菜食在平常的饮食结构中占主导地位。中国人的以植物为主菜,与佛教徒的鼓吹有着千缕万丝的联系。他们视动物为“生灵”,而植物则“无灵”,所以,主张素食主义。
西方人在介绍自己国家的饮食特点时,觉得比中国更重视营养的合理搭配,有较为发达的食品工业,如罐头、快餐等,虽口味千篇一律,但节省时间,且营养良好,故他们国家的人身体普遍比中国人健壮:高个、长腿、宽大的肩、发达的肌肉;而中国人则显得身材瘦小、肩窄腿短、色黄质弱。有人根据中西方饮食对象的明显差异这一特点,把中国人称为植物性格,西方人称为动物性格。
三、饮食方式的不同
中西方的饮食方式有很大不同,这种差异对民族性格也有影响。在中国,任何一个宴席,不管是什么目的,都只会有一种形式,就是大家团团围坐,共享一席。筵席要用圆桌,这就从形式上造成了一种团结、礼貌、共趣的气氛。美味佳肴放在一桌人的中心,它既是一桌人欣赏、品尝的对象,又是一桌人感情交流的媒介物。人们相互敬酒、相互让菜、劝菜,在美好的事物面前,体现了人们之间相互尊重、礼让的美德。虽然从卫生的角度看,这种饮食方式有明显的不足之处,但它符合我们民族“大团圆”的普遍心态,反映了中国古典哲学中“和”这个范畴对后代思想的影响,便于集体的情感交流,因而至今难以改革。
西式饮宴上,食品和酒尽管非常重要,但实际上那是作为陪衬。宴会的核心在于交谊,通过与邻座客人之间的交谈,达到交谊的目的。如果将宴会的交谊性与舞蹈相类比,那么可以说,中式宴席好比是集体舞,而西式宴会好比是男女的交谊舞。由此可见,中式宴会和西式宴会交谊的目的都很明显,只不过中式宴会更多地体现在全席的交谊,而西式宴会多体现于相邻宾客之间的交谊。与中国饮食方式的差异更为明显的是西方流行的自助餐。此法是:将所有食物一一陈列出来,大家各取所需,不必固定在位子上吃,走动自由,这种方式便于个人之间的情感交流,不必将所有的话摆在桌面上,也表现了西方人对个性、对自我的尊重。但各吃各的,互不相扰,缺少了一些中国人聊欢共乐的情调。
所以,归根结底还是感性与理性之间的差异。但是,这种差异似乎在随着科学的发展而变的模糊。越来越多的中国人以不再只注重菜的色、香、味,而更注重它的卫生与营养了。尤其是在经历了非典以后。还有,人们因为越来越繁忙的工作,觉得中餐做起来太麻烦,不如来个汉堡方便等。这样一来在饮食上差异也就不太分明了。
Ⅰ concept of the differences
Fresh, and the Pan-1.1 pragmatism
1.2 ostentation and simple random
1.3 collectivism and individualism
Ⅱ the differences in the banquet etiquette
2.1 tableware difference: chopsticks and the knife and fork
2.2 at the time difference: on time and late
2.3 seating arrangements differences
2.3.1 north-south and about
2.3.2 patriarchal and President priority, gender equality
Ⅲ content of the diet differences
3.1 refinement speak for the United States and re-balanced nutrition
3.2 Caiming differences
The dining product as a result of factor and so on region characteristic, climatic environment, manners and customs influences, will appear in raw material, the taste, the cooking method, the food habit varying degree difference. Was precisely because of these differences, the dining product had the intense localization. Between China and the West culture's difference has accomplished China and the West diet culture difference, but this kind of difference and gets along with people the philosophy from the West different thinking mode. The Chinese pays great attention “the beauty to unite”, the westerner pays great attention “humanist”. here chats the Western diet culture difference briefly from the following three aspects. one, two kind of different diet idea the contrast pays great attention “the taste” the Chinese diet, the West is one kind of rational diet idea. No matter food color, smell and tastes, shape how, but the nutrition needs certainly to obtain the guarantee, is fastidious about one day to absorb how many quantity of heat, Vitamin, protein and so on. Even if the taste is stereotyped, must certainly eat - -, because has the nutrition. This diet idea is adapts with the Western entire philosophy system. Metaphysics is the Western philosophy main feature. The western philosophy studies the object principle of for the thing, principle of the thing often is the metaphysics principle, the metaphysics principle links up mutually, in constipation forming philosophy. This philosophy the culture brings the vitality for the West, caused it in the natural sciences, the psychology, the methodology to realize the development which progressed by leaps and bounds. But in another some aspects, this philosophy advocated that the big earth played the hindrance role, like diet culture. At the banquet, may be fastidious about the tableware, is fastidious about the needed materials, is fastidious about the service, is fastidious about raw material of the vegetable shape, color aspect matching; But no matter how luxurious upscale, from Los Angeles to New York, the beefsteak only then one kind of flavor, does not have art to be possible to say. As the cooked food, the chicken is the chicken, the beefsteak is a beefsteak, even if has matching, that is also carries on the plate, “the Buddhist ritual procedures mutton chop”, puts the mashed potatoes at the same time, side relies on the mutton chop, in addition matches at the same time boils the green beans, adds several piece of tomato then to become. In the color contrasts distinctively, but each raw material is mutually irrelevant in the taste, is well distributed, each is each taste, simple perspicuity. the Chinese is takes seriously “to eat” very much, “the food is what matters to the people” this proverb showed that we eat look equally and the day are important. Because our nationality for several thousand years are in the low productive forces level, the people always cannot eat to the full, therefore only will then have one kind uniquely to eat can regard in all diet culture, I thought that this will be probably stems from one kind of survival to need. If one culture eats regards as the most important matter, will then present two kind of phenomena: On the one hand will eat this kind the function will display the acme, not only maintenance survival, also will use its health maintenance, this will also be” uses medicines to build up one's health was inferior the food will make up” cultural base; On the other hand, to eats excessive takes seriously, will cause the human to esteem to the delicacy the pursue. in China's cookery, achieves the acme nearly to the delicacy pursue, down to makes a living the Chinese to the overseas, take the restaurant as industry, has become us the basis which settles down and gets on with life in the world! It is a pity, when we take the pursue delicacy the first request, we have actually neglected food most basic nutritional value, our many traditional food must pass through overheated fries in oil boils with the long time soft fire dumpling, causes the cooked food the nutrient content to receive the destruction, many nutrient contents lost in the processing process. Therefore as soon as speaks of the nutrition question, in fact touched the Chinese diet culture biggest weakness. The folk has a slang: “the food is what matters to the people, the food take the taste as first”. Is this kind to the delicacy the pursue, poured causes us to neglect the real sense which ate meal. the Chinese when tastes the cooked food, often will say that this TV dinner “delicious”, that vegetable “is not delicious”; However if further asked that anything calls “delicious”, why “delicious”, “delicious” in where, was not perhaps easy to talk clearly. This indicated that what Chinese to diet pursue is one kind explains “the ideal condition” with difficulty, even if is usually called “the color, smell and tastes with the people, the shape,” to come this kind “the boundary” the concrete application, perhaps was still very difficult to cover. the reason that the China diet has its unique charm, the key lies in its taste. But the delicacy production, lies in well distributed, must make food this taste, heats up the later ripe taste, in addition the ingredient and the supplementary material taste as well as the seasoning compromise the taste, interweaves the fusion coordinated in the same place, causes it to supplement mutually, the cooperation seepage, is in perfect harmony, in you have me, in me has you. The Chinese cooking is fastidious compromises the beauty, is the Chinese cooking art concise place. A vegetable shape and the color are the external things, but the taste is actually the intrinsic thing, heavy intrinsic, but decorates the semblance not desirably, but the heavy cooked food's taste exposes the cooked food not excessively the shape and the color, this is precisely the Chinese US diet view most important performance. in China, the diet beautiful pursue has crushed the rationality obviously, this kind of diet view and the Chinese tradition's philosophic thinking also tallies. As Eastern philosophy representative's Chinese philosophy, its outstanding feature is macroscopic, direct-viewing, is fuzzy and is evasive. The Chinese dish manufacture method is the well distributed large ding, is finally must compromise one happy taste. This is fastidious is a discretion, is the overall coordination. It has contained the Chinese philosophy rich diagnostic method thought that all take the vegetable taste happy, harmonized ever changing as, within had decided Chinese dish enriching and was rich in the change, has decided the Chinese dish vegetable department's characteristic and even each chef's characteristic. two, China and the West diet object's difference the westerner thought that the cooked food is appeases hunger, therefore eats the bulk meat, the entire block chicken specially and so on “the hard vegetable”. But China's cooked food is “eats the taste”, therefore China cooks on the needed materials also appears the enormous capriciousness: Many westerners regard as abandons the things, in China is the extremely good raw material, the foreign chef is unable the thing which processes, as soon as arrives in the Chinese chef hand, may melt mysteriously decayed. Indicates the Chinese diet in needed materials aspect vastness capriciousness. according to West's plant scholar's investigation, the vegetables which the Chinese eats has 600 many kinds, are more than six times the West. In fact, in Chinese's cooked food, the vegetarian dish is ordinary food, the meat dish is high when the holiday or the living standard, only then enters the ordinary diet structure, therefore then had “the vegetable food” since old times saying, the vegetable food occupies the dominant position in the ordinary diet structure. The Chinese take the plant as the piece de resistance, has thousand wisp of Wan Si contacting with Buddhist's promotion. They regard the animal are “the life”, but the plant “not works”, therefore, advocates the vegetarianism. the westerner in introduced when oneself country diet characteristic, thought that takes the nutrition compared to China reasonable matching, has the more developed food industry, like canned food, fast-food and so on, although the taste is stereotyped, but saving of time, and the nutrition is good, therefore their country's person body is generally more vigorous and healthier than the Chinese: Gao Ge, longleg, spacious shoulder, developed muscle; But the Chinese appears the stature is thin and small, the shoulder narrow leg is short, color Huang Zhiruo. Some people act according to Western diet object obvious difference this characteristic, is called the plant disposition the Chinese, the westerner is called the animal disposition. in three, diet way's different West's diet way has is very greatly different, this kind of difference is also influential to the national disposition. In China, any banquet, no matter is any goal, only will have one form, will be everybody sits in a circle all round, shares one. The banquet must use the round table, this formally has created one kind of unity, politeness, altogether the interest atmosphere. The delicacy delicacies place a table of person's center, it is not only the object which table of people appreciate, taste, is also a table of person sentiment exchange intermedium. The people propose a toast mutually, offer food to a guest mutually, urge the vegetable, in front of the happy thing, has manifested the moral excellence which between the people respects mutually, gives precedence out of courtesy. Although looked from the hygienic angle, this diet way has the obvious deficiency, but it conforms to our nationality “the happy ending” the universal point of view, had reflected in the Chinese classical philosophy “and” this category to the descendant thought's influence, is advantageous for collective the emotion exchange, thus reforms with difficulty until now. western-style banquets, food and the liquor are freely important, but in fact that takes the set-off. Banquet's core lies in the friendship, through with the adjacent seat visitor's between conversation, achieves the friendship the goal. If banquet's friendship and dance resembling compared to, then may say, the Chinese type banquet is just like is a group dance, but the western-style banquet is just like is men's and women's social dancing. Thus it can be seen, the Chinese type banquet and the western-style banquet friendship's goal is very obvious, but the Chinese type banquet more manifests at complete meal's friendship, but the western-style banquet manifests much between the neighboring guest's friendship. Is more obvious what with the Chinese diet way's difference is the Western popular buffet. This law is: Will possess food 11 to exhibit, everybody according to his need, does not need to fix on the seat eats, takes a walk the freedom, this way is advantageous for between individual's emotion exchange, does not will certainly all words to suspend on the tabletop, also has displayed the westerner to the individuality, to the self-respect. But eats respectively each, did not harass mutually, lacks some Chinese to chat the happy altogether happy affective tone. therefore , in the final analysis between perceptual and rational difference. But, this kind of difference as if in changes along with the science development fuzziness. More and more Chinese by no longer only pay great attention the vegetable the color, smell and tastes, but paid great attention its health and the nutrition. Especially after having experienced the SARS. Also, the people because of more and more busy work, thought that the Chinese meal does is too troublesome, Tathagata Hamburg does not facilitate and so on. As the matter stands the difference not was also too distinct in the diet.